10 reasons to retreat to Vale de Moses

By Katherine Smith, republished with permission from her own blog.

The mountain air rouses me from sleep, tickling the tip of my nose, as I breath deep. It’s not quite dawn and in the darkness the expectant moon shines through my window before it disappears behind the swaying tree line.

I rise in the stillness, to the sound of silence. I shower swiftly and pick my way across the olive terraces to the yoga retreat below.  A quick coffee, a reflective moment and I am ready for the day, which always began with practice then teaching.

Stretching, sweating, laughing and sometimes even swearing before giving in to Savasana is how I remember mornings at Vale de Moses. It is the place I called home for two years before moving to Amsterdam and where I’ll be leading yoga retreats this May, August and October.

Vale de Moses is a small old valley farm nestled in the remote and picturesque foothills of the Serra de Estrela mountain range, Central Portugal. Here you can retreat for a week on the edge of wilderness, in the beautifully restored home of the Winter family, who will enchant you.

From mud-baths and forest walks to healing hands and floating yoga spaces there are almost too many reasons to retreat to Vale de Moses. It is full of magic and might just be the very escape your soul has been searching for.

Here are 10 reasons to go on yoga retreat at Vale de Moses:

1. Healing hands

With one treatment included in every yoga retreat no-one misses out on benefiting from an incredible massage and/or acupuncture session with Vonetta or Peter.

2. The floating yoga shala

The yoga shala is perched above the vegetable patch and fragrant herb garden, providing stunning panoramic views of the surrounding forest and mountains, which burst into full bloom in May.  Yoga classes are offered every morning and afternoon in this serene spot.

3. Hidden spaces & secluded spots

If you get tired relaxing by the natural plunge pools, lounging on the sun-terraces or feasting in the sunken courtyard there are plenty of secret spots to discover where you can enjoy time alone, in close proximity to nature, beneath the Portuguese sun.

4. High vibes, mountain climbing and hikes

If yoga isn’t enough and you still have energy to burn, you can take off on the multitude of hiking trails through the mountains, visit local villages for a cheeky coffee or go climbing with an experienced guide.

5. Morning walks in the woods

Let Andy lead you through the forest on one of his infamous morning walks that never fail to inspire. It is the perfect way to wake up your body for the yoga class that will follow.

6. Furry friends

The dogs at Moses are very much part of the yoga family and love cuddles.

7. The food

Vale de Moses believes in abundance and feeding guests well. You will be served nourishing, homely meals rich in pulses, grains and fresh vegetables that are intended to be gentle on the digestion.

8. The wilderness

Magic happens when you immerse yourself in nature. Research has shown that spending time outdoors can have a positive impact on your health and happiness. Here you can bath in the natural pools, the forest, the mud or just the sun.

9. Getting here won’t break the bank

Flights to Lisbon or Porto are usually inexpensive, from within the rest of Europe, if you time it booking them right. According to Skyscanner 7 weeks ahead of your trip is the best time to book affordable flights. (Direct coaches to Oleiros on Sunday afternoon where there'll pick everyone up by car. Lisbon 1.30pm Porto 4.30pm. Rede Expressos site.)

10. Lisbon

It is hard not to fall in love with Lisbon. Its sunny colours, corner cafes and arty ambience provide the perfect stop off on route to Vale de Moses. There are plenty of beautiful Airbnb properties at reasonable prices, not to mention an incredible range of hostels offering rooms for as little at €15 per night. Be sure not to miss the Pasteis de Natas in Belem!

And if you’re still not convinced. Watch this video.



Join me at Vale De Moses for Wild & Whole, 1-7th May, 7-13 August, 2-8 October or Get on your mat with Kat, 8-14th May, 14-20 August, 9-15 October.

Online Reservations showing live availability for each of my retreats. Prices start from €740 for couples or friends sharing a private room, 790€ for a place in the old stone cottages, or 890€ for a private bedroom, Soulpad or Tipi as single occupancy.

Kat x

Happy 10th Birthday Moses!

At 18 months the day we left London

It's hard to describe how much you have changed our life Moses. We've always loved you. Even the very thought of you before we first met. Remembering back to 2004 when Vonnie and I, Joshua and Eloise began talking about getting a family dog to live with us in New Cross in south east London, we loved the idea of how you might change our lifestyle. How you would necessarily force us to live more outdoors, explore more of London's parks twice a day and take longer journeys out of the city where you, and we, could run a little freer.

Asleep with Eli

The previous summer, Josh had been bitten by a big brutish dog while we were all on a yoga retreat in Italy and as a small boy was understandably a little scared thereafter of dogs. That had to change. So Von began doing her research into the best family dogs and the best breeders. Later the following year in 2005 we went to meet Lillah and her family in Sutton Coldfield in the UK Midlands. And to meet the 14 six week old puppies of the single litter Lillah let your mumma have. Josh picked up a few of your brothers and sisters before finding you. You lay on your back in his hands for just the right amount of time before wriggling to right yourself. Apparently a good sign you would be compliant but not too docile - still with a little joi de vie. You were the one.

In France 2007

We returned to London and left you to spend a few more weeks with your mamma. Now we had to find your name. Took us a few weeks of playing around with a few.  Had to be grand.  Had to somehow capture how we felt your introduction to our life would lead us all on an adventure. Late one night, lying in bed laughing about historic adventures in human history, I said "Moses". Vonnie looked at me, smiled that big broad soft ear to ear grin of hers,and repeated "Moses. He's called Moses."

Lake Dijon

Over the years since, I've often remembered that night of choosing your name. We had at the time absolutely no idea how provident that choice would be. It just felt right. We joked with our friends you were called Moses because you would lead us to the promised land. And that, my friend, you surely did.

Pisa

After just 18 months of exploring London's parks and surrounding countryside, holidays where you would be welcome and free, we finally began to realise that morning and evening walks and weekend wooded escapades were so much fun that maybe we'd like to spend all of our time with you like that. So we decided to quit our jobs, take the kids out of school, rent our house, buy a motorhome and take you on a much bigger expedition round Europe.

Marking territory top of Portugal

And we'd call it the Poop in Europe Tour aiming to let you poop in as many countries as we could manage in a year. That link is the first blog we ever wrote, and it still gives me goose bumps to think of how nervous and excited we felt at the top of the cliff before we jumped.

Italy Sheep Trough

Abruzzo with Margot Portrait

6 months of travelling, eating, learning, cycling, walking, swimming in Europe's lakes, rivers and seas (and Italian sheep troughs!), you led us to an old farm and the possibility of a new life in the mountains of Portugal. Through all the chaos of the beginning months, the uncertainty of not knowing whether we could restore these old ruins and what on earth we would do when we finished, the trepidation of starting to invite people to spend a week with us on retreat, the hundreds of people who have come to see us since, you Moses, have been our dependable, faithful constant.

The original yoga deck and Safira

Wife Safira and daughter Moksha

Serra de Estrela

It's been a remarkable 10 year adventure. And we owe it all to you buddy. Just in case you ever get to read this blog, your official pedigree registered name is "Osrealin The Show Must Go On" and you were born on Sep 15 2005.  May you live long and healthy into your aging years and continue to bring joy and solace to all who know and love you.


We love you Moses.

Walks by rivers

On the beach in Barcelona

Company while restoring houses

First touch of Portugal

Outdoor Shower with Vonnie

First snow for 30 years

Ready for shampoo and set in Lisbon

7 years since we found Vale de Moses

In September 2007, on a family tour round southern europe in a motorhome, with Moses our golden retriever, Josh aged 10 and Eloise aged 8, we arrived in Portugal and saw on the web an old abandoned farm in the centre of Portugal with the same name as our dog.

Here's the blog entry we wrote on that providential day when we first arrived to the village of Amieira and were led by our trusty hound to discover the hope of a new adventure. I re read it today to remind us where this all began. Worth a read if you've not heard the story before. All the photos on this post today are from 2007.

That's 7 years ago this month. Feels like an entire lifetime away. And what an adventure it has been. Learning how to restore houses. Learning a new language and culture. Learning how to make wine, plant trees and potatoes, cultivate herbs and tomatoes, use power tools, drive tractors. Learning how to fish. Learning how to teach English to children in schools. Learning about social media and launching a yoga retreat from our home. Meeting such a rich diversity of people, teachers, volunteers, therapists and carers from all over the planet. Most importantly of all, raising our children (this was Eloise aged 8!) in an isolated forest environment with an abundance of peace and olive oil.

Life, they say, revolves in 7 year cycles. Every single cell in our body changes over this time. Perhaps we fundamentally do too. I was 35 then and now I'm 42. A quick Google search brings up some fascinating stuff around the phases of our lives. And this one I've just been through resonates with lots that have been written about by sages past. Here's a snippet of just one of those links...

"From the thirty-fifth to the forty-second year, depending upon one’s personality and what one’s circumstances allow, one begins to feel a new restlessness. In some degree a desire to share whatever one has gained through life with others comes to the surface. What has been developed or realised can be taken to greater subtlety during this period. This is almost like unfolding something, perhaps similar to the way a flower unfolds a bud that has been developing in earlier phases of its growth. 

You may reach heights or realisation and creativity not touched previously. The profound breakthrough of ones innate genius that emerges around this time will no doubt be expressed in some degree. However, whatever is attained or realised will be enlarged and synthesised in later periods."

All encouraging stuff. Seems from these sites that there is more to come as we get older. Obviously. Good to know nonetheless.

So here we are, drawing towards the close of another fabulous yoga retreat season at Vale de Moses, starting to peak at what might be down the road in the months and years to come. Josh left home last week for school in Castelo Branco. Eli just left for art school in Lisbon this morning. Soon our retreats will close once again for the year, our wonderful team departs and it will then be just Vonnie and I. Then she's off end of November for a while to New York to see her aunty before our Christmas retreat in Barbados. So in December it will be just me and Moses. And his Mrs, Safi and their puppy Moksha. And our 11 year old cat from London, Angel. No one else.

Despite the fact we've lived so remotely for 7 years, I've actually only spent a couple of days here on my Jack Jones own. December might be just the thing to take stock, reflect and dream a little more of what lies ahead. The next 7 year cycle is just around the corner. Today though, I am feeling unbelievably grateful that we bought a puppy in London and named him Moses and that he led Vonnie, Josh, Eli and I to this magical little valley in Portugal.

May your journey through Autumn this year be full of loveliness, whatever life cycle you find yourself in.

Peace.

Memphis

p.s. was also looking through some of the restoration videos we took and found this one by Eloise. Check out the chaos of building work...

Our first recipe book and Barbados for Christmas

We are delighted to announce that our first e-cookbook is now available to buy! "Nourish: Healing Meals from Vale de Moses." 93 pages of our favourite mouth watering recipes written and compiled by Katherine Smith and beautifully designed by my old friend and Creative Director Toby Leetham.

Now, at last, you can make for yourself some of the breakfast porridges, complete main meals, satisfying soups, healthy snacks and drinks we serve on our retreat menu here at Vale de Moses.

To order, just email info@yogaatmoses.com and we'll send you a Paypal invoice for 15€ (you can bank transfer too). Once paid, we'll email you the e-book in pdf form. We hope to do a paperback/hardback print run in time for Christmas pressies too.

We also thought you might like to use this cookbook as a way to take a mini retreat at home. Invite a couple of friends over for the weekend, practice yoga together in the mornings, then cook one or two of your favourite meals. And if you know a good massage and acupuncture therapist, invite them too!

We're hoping to produce more recipe books over the years to come, so please let us know how you get on with preparing these recipes and also share with us some of your own. And if you do the mini retreat thing at home, send us your Retreat Selfies!

Other thing to mention is that our retreat in Barbados is finally going ahead this December. Vonetta's dad Tim, discovered an awesome place called Lush Life last year on the unspoilt and non touristy east coast of Barbados owned and run by a lovely local guy called Tom Hinds. He's created a magical spot in 22 acres of virgin forest with tropical flower gardens, gorgeous luxury eco cabins, a pool, practice spaces, and a restaurant run by the TV chef Peter Eddy.

We're really excited to be running a retreat at Tom's incredible place this year and hopefully helping him attract other yoga teachers to hire it out in 2015 and beyond. Dates are December 16-30, and you can join us anytime for just 3 nights or the whole 2 weeks over Christmas.

If you're interested in coming do let us know as soon as you can as spaces are limited. You can reserve your place online. There are 5 one bedroom cabins and 6 two bedroom ones. Prices are US$1225 / 900€ for a week’s retreat in a private bedroom or $2100 / 1550€ for a couple.  Or for just a few nights at $175 / 130€ per night.

Our Spring retreats in Portugal this year have been wonderful. We've so enjoyed meeting  people from around the world once again this year. Take a look at some of their photos in our Spring Retreat album on Facebook. Talented little yogini photographers they all are! Summer retreats filling up fast so don't miss out this year if you're considering coming out to see us again or for the first time. You'll be most welcome, whether you are new to yoga or have been practicing for years.

There's a wee bit more space this year too, with the addition of 3 new Soulpad belle tents nestled in the quiet valley behind the tipi and below the old moorish water mine. Each has 2 mahogany beds, carpets and drawers inside, with solar lights and wrought iron table and chairs outside. Perfect for friends or couples, or just if you would prefer a little more privacy than the guest cottage or monastic Adega.

We're off to the Costa Vicentina again on June 29 for a week's retreat by the beach. There are still a couple of rooms available if you'd like to join us. Stunning restored guest house called Cerca do Sul run by a friend of ours Sara Serrão, with an awesome salt water pool and terrific walks all along the coastline. Surf lessons too if you'd like. Let us know as soon as you can.

Finally, a huge, enormous, very special and heartfelt thanks to the wonderboy Dylan from South Australia. He came for his first trip to Europe to help us out for a couple of weeks back in April and just left this morning. Our world will not be the same without his face around and consistent, quiet and ready to do anything at any time attitude. God's wind in your sails Dylan. Enjoy the rest of your European adventure!

Peace and love from all of us in this valley in the Portuguese hills.

Andrew & Vonetta
Vale de Moses

Take a Forest Bath!

Just back from our meditative walk before yoga class this morning. The mist is hanging delicately in all the meandering valleys and the welcome drizzle is gently watering all the newly planted herbs and veggies in the kitchen gardens. The smells of damp Eucalyptus and Pine trees together with the scent from the emerging spring flowers was divine today.

This week is a Soft Power retreat. And there's no better example here of the power water has to softly carve out the hardest of stone over the years, than these valleys. It's quite fitting that showers are forecast this week as we're focusing on the energy of water and its restorative ability to heal our bodies.

All this year I will be guiding our guests every morning on meditative walks through the surrounding forests. Depending on the retreat, we draw our attention to the various elements, their presence and effect on the landscape around us, and what might be happening in our own bodies as we move through it. It's a great way to start the day. I spent much of the autumn and winter walking the puppies after their breakfast. Now all but one have found new homes, it's gonna be lovely to walk guests instead! :)

 When Katherine found this old post the other day on Mother Earth News about Forest Bathing, I had to share it on the blog.

"The Japanese term Shinrin-yoku may literally mean "forest bathing," but it doesn't involve soaking in a tub among the trees. Rather it refers to spending time in the woods for its therapeutic (or bathing) effect. Most of us have felt tension slip away in the midst of trees and nature’s beauty. But science now confirms its healing influence on the body. When you spend a few hours on a woodland hike or camping by a lake you breathe in phytoncides, active substances released by plants to protect them against insects and from rotting, which appear to lower blood pressure and stress and boost your immune system." Photo Courtesy Fotolia/Inga Nielsen  

So there you have it. Scientific evidence, as if we needed it, that spending time with the trees is really good for us. The tree huggers were right all along. It's why we always encourage people to explore. Get out. Wander. Find a quiet secluded spot with an awesome view or find a rock by the streams and simply sit in the forest. Immerse your senses in the process. Smell it, feel, taste, touch, listen, and open up to the possibility that simply being in such an environment is healing in itself. When it really warms up in a few weeks time, it's nice to also be able to take a daily dip in the natural river pools and plunge pool to cool off. But until then, good to hear too that the non dip dry bathing concept is also just as therapeutic.

New Sweat Lodge

One of our guests who's been here a few times already, the lovely Georg, spent last week rebuilding a part of one of the terraces that had fallen in, then turned his attention to create this wee structure made from branches he found in the forest in front of the pizza oven by the Moses cottage. With 2 benches chainsawed from a pine trunk.

It's a Sweat Lodge. We bought new rugs yesterday to drape over the top and we're doing final heat checks on various stones from the river to see which won't explode in the fire. Seems to be the darker, harder more volcanic stone. Just need to check with the old guys in the village as they'll be sure to know, then we'll fire up the bread oven, heat the stones, bring them into the covered sweat lodge close the flaps, pour water on the hot rocks, and sweat.

When we get too hot, we'll explore the possibility of taking a plunge in this tank below fed by gravity from the river, with cold cold water, and returning back to the lodge again. We've talked forever about one day building a sweat lodge, and now, just like that, we might just have one. Thanks Georg! You're a star.

Nourish...

Last thing to mention today is that our new cook book "Nourish. Healing Meals from Vale de Moses" by Kat, is with the designers and the pdf should be ready for download in a few weeks. Keep an eye out for when it's released on FB or here on the blog. Then we'll be printing hard copies later in the year once we've taken a few more gorgeous food photos of all our retreat menus this season.

Happy Spring everyone. I hope you each get the chance to take a few hours out this week to visit any nearby forest or woodland to take a "forest bath".

On your own or with friends!   Enjoy. :)

Memphis x

"Ah listen, for silence is not lonely!
Imitate the magnificent trees
That speak no word of their rapture, but only
Breathe largely the luminous breeze."

From Corot by D.H. Lawrence, as featured on, and photo courtesy of, the Woodland Trust FB page.